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AFRICAN ORIGINS (Circa A.D. 800)
Goats will eat anything. Just ask Kaldi the legendary Ethiopian goatherd. Kaldi, the story goes, noticed his herd dancing from one coffee shrub to another, grazing on the cherry-red berries containing the beans. He copped a few himself and was soon frolicking with his flock.
Witnessing Kaldi’s goatly gambol, a monk plucked berries for his brothers. That night they were uncannily alert to divine inspiration.
Coffee later crossed the Red Sea to Arabia.
ESCAPE FROM ARABIA (Circa 1000 to 1600)
Coffee as we know it kicked off in Arabia, where roasted beans were first brewed around A.D. 1000. By the 13th century Muslims were drinking coffee religiously. The “bean broth” drove dervishes into orbit, kept worshippers awake, and splashed over into secular life. And wherever Islam went, coffee went too: North Africa, the eastern Mediterranean, and India.
Arabia made export beans infertile by parching or boiling, and it is said that no coffee seed sprouted outside Africa or Arabia until the 1600s—until Baba Budan. As tradition has it, this Indian pilgrim-cum-smuggler left Mecca with fertile seeds strapped to his belly. Baba’s beans bore fruit and initiated an agricultural expansion that would soon reach Europe's colonies.
EUROPE CATCHES THE BUZZ (1615 to 1700)
“The Turks have a drink of black color....I will bring some with me...to the Italians”. Thus a merchant of Venice introduced Europe to coffee in 1615. But the end product didn’t amount to a hill of beans to many traders—they wanted the means of production. The race was on.
The Dutch cleared the initial hurdle in 1616, spiriting a coffee plant into Europe for the first time. Then in 1696 they founded the first European-owned coffee estate, on colonial Java, now part of Indonesia.
Business boomed and the Dutch sprinted ahead to adjacent islands. Confident beyond caution, Amsterdam began bestowing coffee trees on aristocrats around Europe...
Resolute, de Clieu led a moonlight raid of the Jardin des Plantes—over the wall, into the hothouse, out with a sprout.
Mission accomplished, de Clieu sailed for Martinique.
CROSSING THE ATLANTIC (Circa 1720 to 1770)
On the return passage to Martinique, wrote de Clieu, a “basely jealous” passenger, “being unable to get this coffee plant away from me, tore off a branch.”
Then came the pirates who nearly captured the ship; then came a storm which nearly sank it. Finally, skies grew clear. Too clear. Water grew scarce and was rationed. De Clieu gave half of his allotment to his stricken seedling.
Under armed guard, the sprout grew strong in Martinique, yielding an extended family of approximately 18 million trees in 50 years or so. Its progeny would supply Latin America, where a dangerous liaison would help bring coffee to the masses...
COFFEE BLOOMS IN BRAZIL (Circa 1727 to 1800)
1727: Brazil's government wants a cut of the coffee market; but first, they need an agent to smuggle seeds from a coffee country. Enter Lt. Col. Francisco de Melo Palheta, the James Bond of Beans.
Colonel Palheta is dispatched to French Guiana, ostensibly to mediate a border dispute. Eschewing the fortresslike coffee farms, suave Palheta chooses a path of less resistance—the governor’s wife. The plan pays off. At a state farewell dinner she presents him a sly token of affection: a bouquet spiked with seedlings.
From these scant shoots sprout the world’s greatest coffee empire. By 1800 Brazil’s monster harvests would turn coffee from an elite indulgence to an everyday elixir, a drink for the people.
Brazil (22.5 million bags)
After arriving from French Guiana in the early 18th century, coffee quickly spread and thrived in Brazil. Today Brazil is responsible for about a third of all coffee production, making it by far the heavyweight champion of the coffee-producing world. Though many connoisseurs believe that Brazil’s emphasis on quantity takes a toll on quality, many also praise the country’s finer varieties. Brazil is the only high-volume producer subject to frost. The devastating 1975 frost, in particular, was a boon to other coffee-growing countries. Two 1994 frosts raised prices worldwide. Notable Beans: Bahia, Bourbon Santos.
Colombia (10.5 million bags)
Colombia is the only South American country with both Atlantic and Pacific ports—an invaluable aid to shipping. The crop’s economic importance is such that all cars entering Colombia are sprayed for harmful bacteria. All the equipments introduced into the country are submitted to an antibacterial treatment to avoid any damage to the cultivations. Colombia’s coffee grows in the moist, temperate foothills of the Andes, where the combination of high altitude and moist climate makes for an especially mild cup. So many varieties of coffee are growing in the plantations that the government decided to gather all of them under the name M.A.M. that comes from the cultivation centres of Medellin, Armenia, Manizales. Medellin quality is the best for body and acidity. Very important is the Vintage Colombian, which is stored for 8 years before the roasting. Notable Beans: Medellin, Supremo, Bogotá
India (3.8 million bags)
According to legend, India is the birthplace of coffee cultivation east of Arabia. The coffee has delicate and pleasant taste and is cultivated in different varieties: Robusta Monsonato, Arabica Cherry, and Arabica Monsonato. The two most important varieties are Mysore and Malabar with their full and delicate taste. Indian monsooned coffee mutes the acidity and has a heavier body often appropriate to add depth to an espresso blend. The best monsooned coffee is Monsooned Malabar.
The coffee cherries are brought to the processing plant immediately after harvesting.
Ripe, overripe, and under-ripe cherries are mixed together at this point. If they were not separated the coffee would have a dusty unpalatable flavor with few desirable attributes.
The beans are first washed with water and then passed into tanks filled with water for preliminary separation. The best coffees are dense and will sink in water, whereas the overripe cherries will float and are separated. The low-quality coffees are either slated for internal consumption or sold to instant coffee producers in the United States or Europe.
Unfortunately, green (underripe) cherries are also dense and will continue to be mixed with the perfectly ripe cherries. The green cherries can be sorted out during wet-processing, or in the case of dry-processed coffees must be sorted at a later time.
In the wet-process, the ripe cherries are pulped (removed) from the cherry by applying pressure. With the right pressure only the ripe cherries will be pulped, whereas the hard unripe cherries will be separated. The beans are then sent to fermentation tanks where they remain in water for approximately 8-20 hours.
During this time, the mucilage ferments and is washed from the bean. Wet-processed coffees are characterized by their bright and clean tastes. The body and sweetness, however, is diminished relative to dry-processed coffees.